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+Build log
+=========
+
+Here are my tools used to solder the splitty:
+
+- a simple soldering iron (with a quite large tip),
+- solder (make sure the iron temperature matches the solder),
+- a metallic sponge,
+- solder wick (for fast SMD soldering),
+- tweezers.
+
+![Tools](img/build/00_tools.jpg)
+
+Also not shown on the picture:
+
+- a small screwdriver,
+- a 4 mm wrench or pliers,
+- a flush cutter,
+- a conductivity tester,
+- a magnifier,
+- glue (cyanoacrylate).
+
+OK, let’s start.
+
+The PCB is the same for both halves, one will have components on top and the
+other on the bottom face.
+
+Some components can be soldered on any face:
+
+- the switches of course,
+- diodes can be soldered on any face, choose your side,
+- connectors and reset switch are supposed to be soldered on the top face,
+- only one of C11 or C12 need to be soldered, choose one.
+
+Lay down PCBs side by side to avoid silly mistakes:
+
+![PCB side by side](img/build/01_pcb_side_by_side.jpg)
+
+First components to solder are the diodes, check the polarity, the thin line
+on the component corresponds to the cathode and must be oriented on the side
+with the longer line on the silkscreen.
+
+![Diode polarity](img/build/02_diode_polarity.jpg)
+
+The technique to solder small components is always the same, apply some solder
+on one pad on the PCB, then press the component against the board and heat its
+leg and your solder pad. The component will sink into the solder. Then, apply
+solder to the other side while heating both the pad and the leg.
+
+If one side is connected to a copper plane, choose this pad as the first one.
+If you don’t, there is a risk that the first pad solder will melt while you
+try to heat the pad connected to the plane.
+
+![Put solder on the first pad](img/build/03_diode_pad.jpg)
+![Soldered diode](img/build/04_diode_done.jpg)
+
+Next component to solder is the micro USB socket as this is the trickiest part
+to solder.
+
+Start with the same technique used for the diodes. Apply solder on one pad,
+choose the pad connected to the ground plane. Push the connector into place
+while heating its leg and the pad and check the alignment is correct.
+
+![The first USB pad](img/build/05_usb_pad.jpg)
+
+Then I use a surprising technique which works really well for components with
+small pitch: apply solder to all pads and legs, with proper heating to both
+the pads and the legs as always. All the pads… as the same time… there will be
+shorts.
+
+![Do not fear the solder blob](img/build/06_usb_blob.jpg)
+
+Now, put the solder wick above the contacts, apply a little drop of solder on
+the tip of your iron to improve heat transfer, then press it firmly against
+the wick for two seconds. Most solder will be sucked by the solder wick and
+only a sufficient amount on solder will stay, removing any shorts while still
+ensuring a good contact.
+
+![This technique really sucks!](img/build/07_usb_wick.jpg)
+
+Now solder the large legs to ensure good mechanical support.
+
+Test your connections, this is easy with this kind of cable, you can even
+apply some force on the connector and see if the connection is rock solid:
+
+![Nude USB contacts](img/build/08_usb_test.jpg)
+
+Soldering the rest of the components is a piece of cake, but keep things
+organized:
+
+(TODO: make a video of how easy it is to solder a ATMEGA32u4).
+
+![When the box is empty, you’re done](img/build/09_box.jpg)
+
+The splitty does not use spacers, and you need to prepare screws now before
+the front plate is attached.
+
+Here is a schematic of the attachment:
+
+![Screw attachment](img/screw.png)
+
+Before the switches and therefore the front plate are mounted, you need to
+install the screws and the first nuts. A nut is temporary used on the other
+side so that the screw does not fall during the preparation.
+
+Now it is time to test *every* connections. Repairing a connection (especially
+on the left hand half) will be much harder once the front plate is installed!
+
+![The height screws and their companions](img/build/10_screws.jpg)
+
+![Ready to mount the switches](img/build/11_populated.jpg)
+
+First start with the corner switches so that the front plate is leveled.
+
+![Corner switches](img/build/12_corner_switches.jpg)
+
+Then proceed with the other switches.
+
+![Now this really looks like a keyboard!](img/build/13_switches_done.jpg)
+
+I started with the right side so a mistake can be fix more easily.
+
+![Under the switches](img/build/14_switches_done_bottom.jpg)
+
+To glue the nuts to the bottom plate, use a screw to hold the nut in place.
+
+![Bottom plate screwed](img/build/15_bottom_plate_screwed.jpg)
+
+Apply glue around every nuts and remove the screw before the glue has
+completely dried.
+
+![Same thing, but without the screws](img/build/16_bottom_plate_glued.jpg)
+
+Depending on your switches and nuts, you may need to cut a little bit of the
+switches legs. Another solution is to add enough washers so that is not
+needed.
+
+For the final assembly, you can not screw every screw one after the other, you
+need to turn one turn on every screws, then repeat until every screws are
+tighten.
+
+Well done:
+
+![Bottom](img/build/17_bottom.jpg)
+
+![Top](img/build/18_top.jpg)